Sunday, March 19, 2006

"Excuse me, are you Canadian!?"

Oh, fellow Canadians! How great it was to meet one of my countrymen on the journey in Cape Coast. Dwayne, the Nova Scotian, was passing through the large restaurant on the shore of the ocean when he saw my Canadian flag on my backpack and stopped. His introduction was, "Excuse me, are you Canadian?" It was all history after that! He just finished working in Alberta doing carpentry and now he's doing a project here to build a library for a small town! The people you meet on the road are amazing - there are so many volunteers scattered around, all with such different jobs! Being a minority is a feeling that I have never truly experienced but it seems as though there is a secret society for all the Yevus. When we see each other on the road (which is quite rare, believe it or not), we smile or wink just for an instant in passing but it is a link between us saying, "you're foreign, I'm foreign, and this tro-tro type transportation is disgusting!" Haha - the number of smiles I've gotten while in utter pain on a tro-tro are too many to count but they do make you feel better, if just for an instant.

Yesterday I went on the Canopy walk in Kakum National Park. The canopy, for those of you who do not know your rainforest terminology, is the top layer of leaves waaaaay up high in the rainforest. Kakum National Park (KNP), has a tour of the canopy for a measly $4USD. Sarah and I signed up for the canopy walk not truly understanding the tour in it's entirety. It may well have been the scariest thing I have ever done in my entire life! We started the tour as I assumed we would: walking into the rainforest and just looking at animals and weird stuff. About 15 minutes into the walk (it was a steep walk uphill), we came to a set of stairs and at the top was a platform. I walked up the long staircase to the platform and just about peed myself. The rest of the "tour" was across the canopy which essentially involved a number of platforms at the top of different trees connected by a plank roughly 1 foot wide with two ropes to hold onto on either side. No word of a lie, I though I was going to biff off the side and fall down into the rainforest (but luckily, my ninja husband has taught me the art of balance!) You have to stop and understand here that the canopy is VERY high above the rainforest! It's a completely stunning view!! As far as the eye can see is amazing foleage with stunning birds and the sounds of animals in the trees. When I wasn't shaking in utter fear of death, I was awe-struck by the experience. Sarah, unfortunately afraid of heights, saw less of the canopy while walking above it than she would if she was glancing through a pamphlet. As you can all tell, we made our way through the canopy safe and sound!

I only have roughly 15 minutes left on this internet station but in that time, I will genuinely try to express to you the joy I felt when Sarah and I stumbled upon Koala's. Koala's is a western style grocery market with REAL FOOD! No word of a lie, the song "Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy" played as we stood at the cookie aisle and drooled. Neither of us have been able to recognize our food for the past 17 days so for us to lay eyes on normal food was entirely amazing. Mom, you would be proud! I not only bough 12-grain bread but also invested my precious dollars into some fruit and vegetables but alas, I cannot pretend as though I did not purchase one box of chocolate chip cookies. Sarah and I split the bill so it wasn't even too bad. Just before we hit the checkout, my eye caugh Aunt Jemima! YES, AUNT JEMIMA! Alas, all of the day's troubles had left my memory as I laid eyes upon her sweet sweet smile. Unforuntely, however, I had to leave her pancake and syrup products on the shelf, as the syrup alone was $11. I know, though, that if I ever get really really really desperate, I can always hit up Koala's in search of Aunt Jemima.

The Ghanian gods must have felt bad for inflicting such a terrible tro-tro ride on us yesterday that we were shone with yet another miracle: Frankie's Restaurant. For as little as $4, one can get (ready for it?) REAL FOOD! Yes, you can see a trend here: although I am adjusting to Ghanian food quite well, the thought of fresh vegetables or soup without fish heads in it literally makes me cry. I endulged in a hamburger and a milkshake - two of the essential nutrients that I have been missing so far. I could feel the calcium and iron slowly regenerating my meat and dairy deprived body. There was no talking at our table... just eating.... in complete and utter glory. If any of you wonder how I will spend my first days at home, it will be making chicken stir frys, drinking loads of milk and chomping on fresh carrots. I would almost pay a hefty sum for a bag of baby carrots right about now! *drool* As I write this, the Aussie gets emotional about the thought of sweet creamy milk touching her palate once again... only to be in 10 weeks time!

At this point, I must stop talking about food. I have not eaten breakfast this morning (mainly because we stumbled upon this great internet place on the way to finding food), but more importantly, because as soon as Sarah and I leave Accra, it's back to fish-head soup and unidentifiable dishes (which, as I was saying before, is truly great but the lack of meat and dairy is tough to deal with).

Before I go, however, I just want to ask everyone one question: what do people need? And I stress the word "need." What is it that people need and where is the line that seperates this "need" and "improved lifestyle?" For instance, if someone has a 2meter x 2meter dwelling with a roof on it that keeps them sheltered and houses their children, are their needs being fulfilled? I often wonder this when I walk aruond the village in Woe. Western views have trained us to think that bigger means better but when I stop to watch the family, they function fine with their very small dwelling. Do they need more or is that the western view in me wondering that? It seems like things that we value (ie. personal space and privacy) are not important here so why have seperate rooms for every child? Perspective is everything I find...

Well, Sarah and I are embarking on our journey home this afternoon. I will chat with you whenever I can hop on another incredibly uncomfortable tro-tro and make my way to Denu (the town an hour away from Woe where there is VERY slow but reliable internet). Cheers!!!

4 Comments:

At Sunday, March 19, 2006 6:33:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ms. Ross,
For all the complaining you do about the food (or not complaining, whatever), I will point out that I don’t live in a third world country yet there is NO WHERE to get pancake syrup, among other things (nutmeg, baking soda, etc..) although there is technically milk, since we’re getting more and more tourists, the shop is usually out of milk, yogurt, meat, fresh fruit and veggies (which even if we did have taste like nothing and are really really expensive) for two weeks at a time. In fact, ¾ of our store is candy, tobacco and liquor, and we’ve already been told we have to stockpile for over Easter because there’s no way there will be room on the plane for food with all the tourists coming up.

Anyway, sounds like you are having an exciting experience, and keep the adventures coming!

Rock on
Alex

 
At Sunday, March 19, 2006 1:07:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Yes, Alex does have a point!!

Kels- next time you go to the "western" grocery store you should bring back some UHT milk to your village for yourself. I know it's not the same because of the "cooked" taste, but it is a good option. I would actually recommend that you only consume UHT milk while you are there because of the dangers of raw milk. Yes, this is my Nutrition degree talking. Most of Europe only consumes UHT milk because even in Europe they have many problems with pastuerization. In Canada our milk is a luxury that many western counties don't even have. I know it's a whole different story when you want it so bad! Just keep it in mind!!

Thanks for being so diligent about posting the blogs!

Vanessa

 
At Monday, March 20, 2006 2:02:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Kels! It's totally bush league here, like 8 metres of snow. Sounds like you are having fun. Keep all the interesting blogs coming. Do you mind sending some mangos and sun this way? Do you mind? Bush. Ham Sandwich. What? What!

 
At Wednesday, March 22, 2006 2:39:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Kelsey!

I'm so glad to read that you are having a great adventure so far! And a safe one at that (all tro-tro rides excluded!) haha!

I look forward to reading more about your amazing experiences!

Best wishes,
Th-th-th-thea

 

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